YASIMA's New Project with Mae Engelgeer

YASIMA has unveiled their collection in collaboration with the Dutch textile designer, Mae Engelgeer. In this article, Mae shares her experiences partnering with YASIMA.

–– First off, please tell us about yourself.

Mae Engelgeer (Mae): I am a textile designer from Amsterdam. I studied fashion at AMFI, the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. During my time there, I realized I was very particular with the fabrics and materials I used and decided to shift my studies to textile design, earning my Master’s at the Sandberg Institute Amsterdam.

After graduating, I began my first textile projects. I created a small collection that I was able to present at the Salone del Mobile Milan alongside my designer friends. I was blessed to receive several commissions from all over, even as far as from Australia, and have designed many art pieces and products.

Recently, I had the honor of having my art displayed at Amsterdam Airport’s concert hall, the Concertgebouw. 

–– Do you have a specific material you prefer to work with? And do you have any principles you adhere to when designing?

Mae: I prefer working with wool and silk especially. As for principles, I have four. Firstly, the material. I make sure to understand the properties of the material, whether it be mohair or silk. Second, I do a draft with graphic drawing. Third is deciding the technique. Do I want it woven, knit, or printed? And fourth is determining the colors and dyes. 

The materials, design, technique, and color are important to me as they are the puzzle pieces that help create new art depending on how they are combined and used.

–– Were you interested in textile design from your childhood?

Mae: I was a very touchy child. I interacted with the world through touching everything. A core memory I have was when I was little, my family and I were at a train station near Disneyland Paris. I saw a red button and couldn’t help but push it. Turns out, that button was the emergency button and I received a good scolding from my mother. My son inherited this trait so now, I’m the one having to watch out for buttons a child could press.

With these experiences, I find touch to be incredibly important out of the five senses. Even in daily life, I’m left pondering “what is this made out of?” with anything I use.

–– I see that your sense of touch has done more good for you than any sight or sound has.

Mae: Textiles are so versatile, anything obvious like clothes, to the less obvious like flooring, walls, and chairs, can be shaped by them. You can shape your environment with what you like. That’s why I love textiles. I find it appealing that you can create your own world with textiles.

–– Could you share with us why you decided to accept YASIMA’s collaboration offer?

Mae: Being able to consult with Mr. Yagi directly was a big plus. He allowed me to browse through his archive of textile samples. His office was like a candy store, his archive of 100 year old necktie patterns were like sweets of all colors and tastes. It was a delight getting to choose what patterns to work with and arrange.

Mae flipping through archives and letting her imagination soar at the YASIMA office

Mae: I make sure to respect a brand’s identity when working with them, while offering a new perspective. I actually adore necktie textiles, so I was really excited at the chance to look at YASIMA’s archives. I also appreciated that YASIMA was very open and welcoming of my ideas and opinions.

–– What were some positives you experienced in this collaboration?

Mae: I believe taking time is critical to a partnership. We need time to communicate with the craftspersons and understand each other. Once we do so, we can work as a family of sorts to reach a mutual goal. Getting the chance to reach that point is important for me.

The project itself was also a good challenge for me. YASIMA explained to me that their brand asked for something that was both modern and futuristic. Having to combine silk and urushi lacquer into something cohesive was a task I’d never heard of, and I was all for it.

<Mae’s memo of ideas>

–– I saw the finished collection. It was beautiful and YASIMA-esque.

Mae: The techniques used to make necktie cloth can make far more delicate patterns compared to other methods. Studying their intricate designs repeatedly allowed me to think deeply on how to create a brand new product from historic collections. I’m satisfied with how the end result reflects the YASIMA brand image.

–– What left an impression on you during this partnership?

Mae: I was surprised at how everything went smoothly. When I design something, sometimes the resulting pattern isn’t what I imagined when it is woven. But with YASIMA, a lot of what I pictured came out exactly as is. And even when something didn’t end up quite as I imagined, it gave me the opportunity to accept that “this color isn’t that bad” and adjust accordingly.

In the end, I am proud of the 9 patterns that we decided on.

Also, getting to visit the weaving factory was amazing. Seeing how my designs were woven into textiles was a wonderful experience.

–– Was there something you were particularly conscious of in your workflow?

Mae: I think the balance between each textile I design is vital for the whole collection. No matter how small or large the project, I always make sure to give my best. This time, my biggest challenge was the silk and lacquer. I paid extra attention to the balance of the two, mapping out where the silk should be displayed, and where the urushi lacquer could shine.

<Mae checking the color of the silk while considering where to use urushi/
漆が乗ることをイメージしながら、糸の色を確認していく>

–– You recently moved to Japan to continue your endeavors. What’s something you want to do?

Mae: Japan is a trove of hidden materials and techniques. I plan to visit many craft shops and their craftspersons to learn more about the history and culture to incorporate into my own work. And I hope that I’ll be able to contribute to that history with new ideas, while broadcasting the traditional beauty of Japanese art to the world.

PROFILE:
MAE ENGELGEER

Textile design has always been at the heart of Dutch designer Mae Engelgeer’s work, from her high school days to her studies at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute and Sandberg Instituut. Since opening her own studioin 2013, she has nurtured her curiosity for the craft, experimenting within the existing boundaries of textileproduction to elevate old techniques to a modern stage.
Mae Engelgeer’s work embraces subtle colour palettes, patterns and linear elements. Complex compositions merge with perfection to establish harmony. Creative explorations into the contrasting of materials and texturesresult in works that luxurious in their tactility and dimensionality.
In addition to developing her own collections, Mae Engelgeer collaborates with brands around the world onprojects ranging from textile products and furniture design to material explorations and art direction to largescale installations and public artworks.